Oregon Coast (by Sunshine)

Every view could be a postcard

Jim and I had been to Oregon a couple times previously, so we didn’t plan to spend a lot of time in the state on our way up to Washington. Darn! We forgot just how diverse this area is and wish we would have had more time to explore. The clock is ticking, however, and we feel some pressure to keep moving if we want to see all the places on our list before our trip ends.

Breakfast at the rest area

We drove into Oregon on Hwy 101 along the coast after leaving the Redwoods. The sun looked like a giant orange ball sinking into the Pacific Ocean and waves crashed into rocky headlands. Interspersed with the high rock cliffs were crescent shaped sandy beaches beckoning to be explored. Jim could hardly contain his urge to pull off at every scenic overlook but we wanted to find a place to park for the night and get settled before it got too late. Oregon is one of a few states that allow overnight parking in their rest areas (up to 12 hours). They encourage drivers to be well rested and even provide free coffee in some rest areas. In other states, they can’t really stop you from pulling over and sleeping in your vehicle for a few hours but they don’t encourage it or provide convenient safe places to do it. The rest area we chose this night was right next to a beach and we had it all to ourselves. In the morning, we walked in the sand and searched among the tiny smooth pebbles for treasures.

Beach exploration

The entire coast of Oregon is lined with state parks and recreation areas. There are over 60 of them and it is overwhelming to choose which to explore and which to pass by. Each one beckons with its unique beach, lighthouse, or vista. The northern part of the coast is much more developed and is where you’ll find rental cottages, surfers riding the waves, and small towns lined with tourist shops. The southern part of the coast feels untouched with sparse development, but is so beautiful that it made us wonder where all the people are. There is an interesting interplay between the ocean and mainland that creates the weather patterns. When it is hot inland it is cool on the coast but clouds and fog may be thick enough to block the best views. When it is hot and sunny at the coast it can be cooler inland and all of this can flip throughout the day.

Walden and the lighthouse keeper

As we drove north from the rest area the clear blue sky was replaced with gray clouds and it got cooler and windier. Our plans to find a beach to play on were quickly replaced with “now what do we do?” Much to our delight we found a lighthouse that had just started giving tours for the day. It was the perfect place to visit on a foggy day. The Cape Blanco lighthouse sits on the point furthest west and is the oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast. We were delighted to find a volunteer interpreter dressed as a 1900s lighthouse keeper giving tours while standing right next to the rotating light. He must have been in his 80s and after the tour suggested we all pull out our smartphones so he could take our photos as he assured us, “I have a smartphone too and know how to work one.” What fun it was to stand next to the thick giant glass spinning in the tower and look out over the waves crashing on the rocks below. Later in the day we continued with our lighthouse theme and toured the Heceta Head lighthouse. It sits atop a cove with a magnificent beach below. We explored the sea caves covered with bright green plants and slippery rocks, searched for creatures in the tide pools, collected shells washed onto the sand, and watched gulls bathing in the fresh water creek that ran into the ocean. We pushed on driving up the coast to overnight at another free rest area so we could explore again early the next day.

Sea cave exploration at Heceta Head

Being octopus at the Octopus Tree

Our first stop in the Tillamook area was Cape Meres National Wildlife Refuge. We hoped to sight some tufted puffins but all the nesting sea birds were high on rocky outcroppings and cliffs too far out to sea to get a good view of. We did identify some Common Murres, Cormorants, and Gulls. We toured the Cape Meres lighthouse and visited a crazy Sitka spruce tree with no leader and eight large limbs reaching out like octopus arms, aptly named the "Octopus Tree". We hiked down the headland on a lovely trail to the rocky shore for a picnic. There was no sand and the rocks were so large it was challenging to walk but we did get to watch some fisherman casting way out into the rough surf to catch small silver fish.

Tillamook Cheese Factory

Our next stop was the Tillamook Cheese Factory. It is the Disneyland of cheese factories with a massive parking lot and so many visitors and lines we held tight to Walden’s hand for fear of losing him in the crowds. The entire processing area is encased in glass so from the second story landing you can watch large blocks of cheese being cut, weighed, and packaged among a spider web of conveyor belts. Interpretive signage and videos tell the history and story of the local farms that produce the milk for the cheese, but nearly everyone bypassed this information for the cheese samples, sales area, and freshly made waffle cones filled with Tillamook ice cream (Walden and Daddy were in heaven).

Mmmmmm.... Salmon Berries

From the cheese factory, we drove inland to the Tillamook Forest Center where our friend Fran is the director. Walden loved the interactive exhibits (best we’ve seen on the trip) and movie experience with simulated fire and even the smell of smoke. We had to leave sooner than we’d like because the center closed, but we camped just across from the forest center at Jones Creek Campground, one of the nicest campgrounds we’ve stayed at... few people and secluded campsites near a river. Much to our delight, we discovered some ripe berries hanging on bushes taller than us. They looked like giant raspberries and were bright yellow, red, and deep purple. After much discussion and a taste test by Jim (waited at least 30 minutes to see if he lived), we decided they were safe and picked heaps of them. Walden would have eaten enough to get sick if we hadn’t stopped him. Later we learned they are salmon berries.

Splashing in the waves at Oswald West

Exhausted at Cannon Beach

In the morning, we crossed a giant bridge over the Wilson River to go back to the Forest Center. It is an Oregon Department of Forestry facility and LEED certified. The building has a fun design including a moat around the front that catches rainwater to flush the toilets and cool the interior. We climbed the fire tower out front and explored the trails through the forest before heading to the coast again. Our next beach visit was to Oswald West State Park. We walked through an old growth forest to reach a long stretch of wide sand. Walden loved running in the waves and splashing, building sand castles, and crossing the ice cold streams that ran from the hillside to the ocean. We all needed a day to sit in the sun and relax a bit without feeling the pressure to keep moving north. Our last stop on the coast was Cannon Beach to see the famous sea stacks, curiously shaped islands of rock. A strong wind and ridiculous number of tourists left us feeling a bit unpleasant. Walden was so exhausted after all of our exploring that he fell asleep while I was giving him a piggyback ride and Jim carried him back to the car in his arms passed out like a baby. He slept the entire drive to Portland. Our friends Fran and Corky recently moved to Portland from Wisconsin, so we were fortunate to be able to spend a night with them. When he woke Walden was delighted to discover there was a playground right behind Fran and Corky’s house. Even though it was a quick visit, we enjoyed catching up with some Wisconsin friends again. We are so thankful for the hospitality of our friends and family on this journey.

At the playground with Corky and Fran

In the morning, we stocked up on groceries, got gas, and headed north for Mount Rainier National Park.