A Day in the Life (by Sunshine)

Burro camping at Organ Pipe National Monument

Since this blog is as much a journal for our family as it is a way of sharing our adventures with others, I thought we might want to capture what a day of Burro living looks like. Every day of our journey is different and what we see and do is unique but we do have a rhythm that prevails. I believe all families have a pattern they fall into that helps them move through the day with some kind of order and familiarity.

5-6 am – I wake and quietly dress. Our clothes are kept in duffel bags we purchased to fit the exact space under Jim’s and my bed. Each of us has two duffels for the trip. One is in the Burro with clothes that match the weather we are currently experiencing and one is in the back of the car with extra clothes for rain, snow, sun, or whatever weather we might experience on another part of the trip. After I grab my toiletry bag, I leave the sleeping boys behind. All it takes to get ready in the morning is a quick brush of the teeth and hair, so I usually have some treasured quiet time to myself. We keep a tiny porta potty in a space under Walden's bed for emergencies (or for Walden if he decides it's time to potty train), but haven't had to use it yet because we generally camp within range of at least a pit toilet. We also have a solar heated shower bag which up to this point hasn't been needed or has been too cold to use (except once in Zion), so we've relied on campground shower houses or friends' and family's bathrooms.

Yoga on Perdido Key - Gulf Islands National Seashore, FL

6-7 am – I love to start the day with 10-15 minutes of yoga in our campsite under the trees or on the beach. It helps me feel centered and calm and I get to absorb the beauty around me before most everyone else in the campground is awake. If the boys are still sleeping, I work on Walden’s travel journal (a notebook filled with postcards and stories of our adventures written from his perspective), draft blog posts, or create little felt owls I’ve been sewing. It is precious quiet Mommy time and usually occurs in the front seat of the car.

Sleepyhead peaking out his bedroom curtain

7-8 am – When the boys wake, I head back inside to the Burro. Walden’s preferred way to start the day is to climb in bed with Daddy and listen to stories about when Jim was a little boy or about the make-believe worlds they create together. Daddy is a fantastic storyteller. I take down the curtain that hangs from a shelf above Walden’s bed and is tucked below his mattress to make a cozy little room for him in the front of the Burro. Then I turn off the iPad that has been playing the sound of rain all night and move the dishes and food bin that have been stored on the stove top to Walden’s bed area. The curtains in the Burro are rolled up and held in place with clips to let the light in. We have battery powered lights but try to use natural light as much as possible to conserve the battery. Jim replaced all the bulbs with LED ones so they don’t take much energy, but we also use the battery to charge our phones, iPad, tablets, and computer; every bit of conservation helps. We have several adapters in the car so we charge our devices while we drive whenever possible. The battery in the Burro only gets recharged when we are at someone’s home and we can plug a charger into an electric outlet. The Burro can also run on electricity, but we don’t tend to go campsites offering such amenities. If we have flush toilets or warm water at a campground, we feel like we are living the good life.

Cooking in the Burro

Next, I make breakfast. All of our dishes (except the pot, pan, and storage containers) are kept in a cupboard above the stove top and counter area. We have only enough dishes for a day, so I try to clean them after every meal. The boys usually have yogurt with fruit and granola or oatmeal with fruit. I have a mixture of squash and zucchini with almond butter, nuts, and fruit. The reason we don’t all eat the same food is because I wouldn’t expect anyone to eat what I do and I can’t eat what the boys do. I have celiac disease, which means complete avoidance of gluten containing foods, in addition to multiple other food intolerances. Over the past year, my ability to digest many foods deteriorated and we actually thought we might have to cancel the trip because of my severely limited diet. It is challenging to meet my needs on the road but we’ve made it work. I eat mainly vegetables, chicken, salmon, nuts, and berries. I can tolerate small amounts of ground beef, rice, and beans. Everything must be plain and unprocessed. Thankfully the Burro has a small refrigerator and tiny freezer that helps our fresh food last longer since we usually only get to a grocery store once a week. We have a large cooler that fits in the back of the car where we keep lots of vegetables. Two blocks of ice and a wool blanket cover keep things cold for several days.

Having breakfast in bed to stay warm in Santa Fe, NM

8-9 am – Jim gets dressed and heads out with his toiletry bag. Our bed gets made and I dress Walden. Jim usually eats breakfast outside where there is more space and it is calmer. Walden and I eat breakfast inside while playing with toys kept in his Minion backpack that hangs on the wall above his clothes duffel. Walden has one toy bag in the Burro and one in the car. He also has one bag of books in the Burro kept on a shelf above his bed and a few outside toys including a ball, sand pail, and his treasured tricycle that rides on the hitch of the Burro when we are driving. Walden is great at finding sticks and pinecones to play with, but also likes time with stuffed animals, cars, and other toys he’s acquired along the trip.

Can I ride my tricycle now?

This is also the time of day when we prepare for either traveling/driving or having an adventure.

If it is a driving day – Jim packs the camp chairs into the car top carrier, puts the wheel chocks and stabilizers into the storage bin on the back of the Burro, turns off the propane, cleans up the outside toys, and readies to hook the Burro to the car. I move the items stored on the shelves above the beds onto Jim’s and my bed (we tried to keep them on the shelves while driving several different times, but they always manage to bounce off on rough roads), secure the refrigerator and cupboard doors, and move everything off the counter and stove top. The whole process is fairly quick and we can be road ready in about 10 minutes.

Getting gear ready for an adventure

If it is an adventure day – We get any clothing we might need from the Burro and move it to the car. Walden is a good hiker when he wants to be and can go about a mile on his own, but often we want to hike much further than that so he gets pretty worn out. If we are going somewhere that might be stroller friendly, we move the extra duffel bags and food storage bins from the back of the car into the Burro. The jogging stroller rides in the Burro when we travel, sits outside under a tarp when we camp, and is moved into the back of the car when we might want it for our adventures. Walden’s other mode of transportation for a long hike is a backpack that is kept in the car top carrier (so is always with us). The car top carrier also holds sleeping bags, camp chairs, and assorted odds and ends. We have a tent, sleeping pads, extra water jugs, a small heater, and a small fan in the storage compartments beneath our bed.

Walden entertains himself while we drive

9am-noon – We either drive drive drive or play play play. While we drive, Walden entertains himself with games, books, and listening to music (Ernie and Bert singing in the bathroom is his current favorite). I navigate, keep Walden happy, and hand out snacks. Jim does all the driving, mainly because he gets too bored and sleepy otherwise.

If we are not driving, we prefer to be hiking. We mix in time for Walden to throw rocks in streams and dig in the dirt so he doesn’t get too bored. Walden loves going to visitor centers and repeatedly pressing buttons of any kind. Jim takes photos of interpretive signage for work and documentation of our experiences. If we’re on a long hike, Jim carries Walden in the backpack along with a Camelbak for water, and I carry a smaller pack containing water for Walden and I and food for everyone.

12-1 pm – If it is a driving day, we always try to find a park for a lunch stop. Walden loves playgrounds, so we try to incorporate one into the day whenever possible. National Parks have a serious lack of entertainment for small children. Yes, nature is the best playground, but when the only rocks to explore are perched above a cliff or climbing on the giant trees hurts their roots, a three-year-old’s need to explore gets squelched. Whenever we stop, Jim lights the pilot on the refrigerator because blows out when we drive. I prepare lunch while the boys run and play.

Lunch break at Capstone Canyon State Park, TX

If it is an adventure day, we find a fun place to have a picnic and I pull our prepared lunches out of the backpack. Jim usually eats a sandwich, chips, and banana. I usually have a salad, veggies and hummus, or tuna with avocado. Walden has peanut butter on a corn tortilla or rice cake, fruit, and cheese. Walden’s focus on eating never lasts long enough to fill him up-- play trumps hunger--so his lunch is usually finished on the go.

1-5 pm – More driving or more playing. We’ve found that a drive that would be 5 hours non-stop usually fills a day for us. By the time we stop for gas, lunch/playground, and scenic lookouts, a longer drive gets to be too much car time for Walden. We’ve definitely done longer days but it becomes exhausting for all of us.

Worn out - Apalachicola National Forest, FL

Walden is at an age where he can make it through a day without a nap, but without one, he gets pretty crabby in the evening. After a few days of no naps, he becomes rather unpleasant to be with and eventually falls asleep exhausted at some random point in the day. We try to avoid this by providing napping opportunities when we can. Sometimes he’ll nap in the backpack if the hiking trail isn’t too rough. Sometimes he’ll nap in the stroller if we walk far enough. The best naps occur in the car on our way back from an adventure. If Walden does take a nap he earns coveted "iPad time" for up to an hour while I prepare supper. Walden loves to watch Curious George or play games that Jim loaded before we left home.

5-6 pm – Jim and Walden run and play in the campsite. They also get water, prepare wood for a campfire, or have quiet time to themselves. I prepare supper in the Burro, which is also quiet time for me. We have a handful of meals we enjoy on the road that can be prepared on a two burner stove. Chicken or salmon – the sides being broccoli or green beans and potato fries. Pasta with sauce – I add ground beef and lots of veggies to the sauce. When we have access to a microwave, I cook spaghetti squash before leaving and use that in place of pasta. Tacos – a mixture of ground beef, sweet peppers, rice, and salsa. The boys eat it with cheese on corn tortillas and I put it over lettuce. On occasion the boys will cook Applegate natural hot dogs over the fire that we’ll eat with veggies. I also keep some quick boxed meals on hand for the boys, such as soup and mac and cheese, for when the fresh food runs out or we are in a hurry. On those days, I eat canned tuna/salmon or almond butter on rice cakes.

Supper time in Great Smoky Mountains National Park

6-7 pm – We start our meal by saying something from the day we are thankful for. It is a nice time to reflect on what we’ve seen and done and creates an opportunity to be positive even on challenging days. We try to enjoy a peaceful family meal, but often Walden can’t sit still so we get a few bites in ourselves between attempts to entice him back to the picnic table. We’ve eaten a few meals in the Burro due to cold weather or mosquitoes, but for the most part we eat outside.

7-8 pm – I heat water for dishes in the Burro and Jim and I wash them at the picnic table. Walden does his best to entertain himself without falling, getting into poison ivy, or bashing a body part into a rock. There are usually tears at some point but they don’t last long. After dishes, the boys are often busy exploring and I prepare my food for the next day. Because I eat so many vegetables, I have to clean, cut, and divide them into containers I can carry with me wherever we go. It takes more time to do this on a one-by-two counter top than in a full kitchen at home.

Campfire time at Zion National Park

8-9 pm – Sometimes we take a walk around the campground or on a nearby trail. Some evenings we have a campfire. We refill our water bottles and jugs, unpack our backpacks, and plan our adventures for the next day. I also use this time to prepare the Burro for the night which means putting the dishes away and moving things off Walden’s bed. I rehang the curtain and place the body pillow on the outer edge of Walden’s bed so he doesn’t fall on the floor while sleeping. I get out Walden’s pajamas and books for story time.

Bedtime stories with Aunt Kendra and Uncle Jojo
at Mt. Rainier National Park

9-10 pm – Jim brings Walden in the Burro, gets him ready for bed, and reads him stories. I head out to brush my teeth and prepare for bed. I read on my tablet while Walden falls asleep then go to sleep myself. Jim stays by the campfire and enjoys quiet time looking at the stars or reading. We used to bring books and use our headlamps while camping but have discovered that tablets weigh less, are rechargeable, and give off very low light, so we’ve come to prefer them on the trip. After a long day, we usually all sleep well and get more rest than we would at home.

A free overnight view on the Oregon coast

Burro living is quite nice and we’ve become accustomed to the routine. I appreciate the simplicity of things – all the dishes are dirty or clean because there aren’t many of them; everything is usually put in its place because we’d have not place to sleep it if wasn’t; the floor is clean with a shake of a rug. Having this experience helps me understand why people choose to live simply in tiny houses. I also feel the attraction of being on the road and living in an RV full-time like some retired people do. I am grateful to be exploring the natural wonders of this country and living simply.  

Uncle Jojo, Aunt Kendra, and a Volcano: Mt. Rainier National Park (by Jim)

Mount Rainier on a perfect, sunny day

There are a few things that Walden has been obsessed about over the course of our journey. One is volcanoes. I don't think he has actually seen a volcano before... in real life or on a video. Yet, he replicates the sound of a volcano erupting while we're hiking. "Daddy, do you hear that?" A soft rumble, rumble sound. "It's getting louder!" A louder rumble with just the right amount of phlegm in the back of his throat. As the volcano erupts, the sound grows into a thundering spit explosion on the back of my neck. Then, the whole things starts over again. "Daddy, do you hear that?" The volcano erupting game has been known to last for over an hour. And yes, other hikers do give us some funny stares as they pass by.

Another thing that Walden has obsessed over since nearly the beginning of the trip is visiting Uncle Jojo and Aunt Kendra in Seattle. Especially seeing Aurthur, their cat. Joey and Kendra got married last September and moved to Seattle in January to start their own life adventure. They decided to move at about the same time that we decided to take our trip, so the Seattle area, of course, became a "must stop" destination on our journey. Joey and Kendra are the uncle and aunt that every three-year-old would want... they play all sorts of games with you (even those that Mommy and Daddy are sick of), they spoil you with presents and treats (including S'mores), and they have a cat! Nearly every day over the past month, Walden asked if TODAY was the day we would be visiting Uncle Jojo and Aunt Kendra.

Finally, Walden got his wishes. Mount Rainier was the perfect place to experience his two obsessions together: a massive mountain volcano (albeit a quiet one), and seeing Joey and Kendra in-person.

Panorama of Mt. Rainier from Ricksecker Point

Mount Rainier is the highest mountain in the Cascade Range and in the state of Washington at 14,411 feet. It is especially impressive because there are no other high peaks to obscure it. It stands alone, towering over the landscape with its snowy peak... it has 26 glaciers that slowly carve ravines through the volcanic rock. Despite all the snow and ice, it is an active volcano. Mount Rainier National Park encompasses the entire mountain, from the craters on its icy peak to lush old growth forests at its base fed by massive rainfall. The mountain is so large, it creates its own weather systems, blocking moisture-laden clouds from the Pacific and forcing them up its slope. The clouds cool and drop their rain... over 100 inches a year on the west side.

Walden "fishing" at our campsite

We arrived at Mount Rainier on June 18 after driving north from the Portland, Oregon area. The day was cloudy, so we didn't get a view of the mountain itself. But the drive to the park meandered through hills and mountains clothed in green forests. We decided to camp in Ohanapecosh in the southeast corner of the park, which is known for its old-growth forests of Douglas fir, western red cedar, and western hemlock. The campground itself was beautiful, situated on the rushing Ohanapecosh River that almost glowed in a transparent blue-green color. Unfortunately, the campsites themselves left something to be desired. They were small and jammed next to each other with little privacy. The sites next to the river were already taken, and most of the loops were still closed down for the season, despite the heavy use. We found a site that we were able to carefully maneuver the Burro into.

Moss covered forest in Ohanapecosh

To Walden's disappointment, Joey and Kendra wouldn't arrive until the evening of the next day. So, we had to start our exploration of the park on our own. On June 19, we hiked the Silver Falls Trail from our campground (2.7 miles), which meandered through an incredible emerald forest along the Ohanapecosh River. Every square inch of the forest floor, including old stumps, branches, and rocks, was carpeted by lush green moss and ferns. The trail led to Silver Falls, water rushing through black, volcanic walls and diving into a turquoise pool. As we returned to the campground, the trail led through an area of hot springs where a resort had once stood.

Playing chase around old-growth cedar

That afternoon, we hiked the Grove of the Patriarchs Trail (1.1 miles), a stand of massive old-growth Western red cedars and Douglas firs protected on an island in the Ohanapecosh River. While we had visited sequoias and redwoods, this had a totally different feeling that I was drawn to. Perhaps it was the diversity of massive trees and the river surrounding the grove. Or, perhaps it was the fact that we use Western red cedar to construct signs at Schmeeckle Reserve, and it was fascinating to see the gargantuan source of our lumber standing in its natural habitat. Walden had a fun time running in circles around the trees on the boardwalk, crossing a shaky suspension bridge over the river, and throwing rocks into the water.

Eating supper at the campsite

To our delight, Uncle Jojo and Aunt Kendra finally came to visit that evening and join us for the weekend. Despite his eagerness, Walden was shy at first, as he usually is around other people, but warmed up quickly and soon was helping to set up their tent and coaxing them into blowing bubbles. He was disappointed that Arthur, their cat, didn't come along camping, but we ensured him that we would see Arthur soon. We had a scrumptious meal of tacos that evening followed by a blazing campfire. But the best part, according to Walden? Jojo and Kendra brought ingredients for making S'mores! Walden had read about S'mores in some of his books, but had never actually made one before. The joy of seeing a boy eat S'mores for the first time is impossible to describe in words.

Walden eating his first S'more with Jojo

Wildflowers and Mt. Rainier at Paradise

The next day, June 20, we all headed up to the Paradise area which is on the southern flanks of the mountain. The morning started out with clear skies and a beautiful sun. As we drove on the curving road, we caught our first glimpse of Mount Rainier, snowy and rugged rising up into the blue heavens. We stopped at several viewing areas along the road to take photos and just stare in awe. The road to Paradise climbs to 5,400 feet in elevation, providing incredible "up close" views of Mount Rainier rising above subalpine meadows carpeted with every color of the rainbow. The wildflowers were absolutely stunning... from the purple lupine, to white avalanche lilies, from yellow sunflowers to red Indian paintbrush. We hiked the Skyline Trail loop, a 5.5-mile trail that climbs 1,700 feet through the meadows and rocks. Clouds eventually formed around Mount Rainier, obscuring it from view, but the rest of the sky was clear providing an impressive panorama of the Cascade Range, including other volcanic peaks like Mount Adams and Mount St. Helens. We had to cross a few slippery snow fields on the trail, which was a bit tricky at times, and since Walden was on my back, I was glad that Kendra lent me one of her hiking sticks. The number of people at Paradise was overwhelming (all the parking lots and roads were completely full), but getting out on the trails at least removed us from some of the crowds.

All of us in front of Mt. Rainier on the Skyline Trail

Narada Falls

On June 21, we celebrated Father's Day by taking a day trip to the Longmire area of the park in the southwest corner. This historic district contains the largest number of buildings designed in a park "rustic style," which would be replicated in numerous parks throughout the country. On the way, we stopped at Narada Falls, a 168-foot high cascading waterfall with a stunning rainbow at the bottom, and Christine Falls, a 69-foot waterfall framed by a stone bridge along the road. At Longmire, we visited the old Park Museum (built in 1916... the exhibits still match) and the old Park Headquarters (built in 1928... now a Wilderness Information Center). We hiked the short Trail of Shadows loop (0.7 mile), which interprets an old hot springs resort with lots of fun opportunities for a 3-year-old: a bubbling spring to touch, an old cabin to explore, small creeks and waterfalls to splash in, and boardwalks to run on.

Crossing the Nisqually River

That afternoon, after Joey and Kendra returned to Seattle (they work for a living, after all!), we hiked the Carter Falls/Madcap Falls trail (2.2 miles). The first part of the trail crossed the Nisqually River over a log bridge, the gray, silt-laden water rushing beneath us from a melting glacier and Mount Rainier rising above the boulder-strewn riverbed. The trail then climbed through a forest along the Paradise River to two rushing waterfalls. We climbed to the top of the second waterfall and rested on a rock in the middle of the river. Sitting next to Walden, listening to the rushing water tumble over the cliff, surrounded by trees, flowers, and rocks, daring each other to dip our toes into the frigid water (and squealing every time we did), it made me very proud and happy to be a Dad. I am so thankful to have the opportunity to spend this precious time with my family.

Enjoying Father's Day with my boy

View of Mt. Rainier from Sunrise

On June 22, our last day at Mount Rainier, we packed up the Burro and drove north to the Sunrise area, which is on the eastern flanks of the mountain. It is also the highest area accessible with a car at 6,400 feet in elevation. We found a place to park the Burro before making the steep climb up in the car. The Sunrise area feels much more open and exposed than Paradise. The wildflowers are still impressive, but they seem to be more sparse and smaller on the wide open slopes. The sight of Mount Rainier towering above the visitor center and inn is spectacular... it really shows the massive size. The sky was quite cloudy, but every once in a while, the top of Mount Rainier would peak out. We hiked part of the Sourdough Ridge Trail to Frozen Lake (disappointingly, not frozen or very scenic) and looped around to Shadow Lake, a turquoise gem surrounded by spruce trees. The walk back to Sunrise from the lake was filled with meadows carpeted by beautiful wildflowers... in one meadow, the lupine was so thick it looked like a fairyland purple lake in the distance.

That afternoon, as Mount Rainier slipped behind thicker clouds, we walked the Silver Forest Trail (1.6 miles) to the Emmons Vista overlook with beautiful views of the glacial valley and through a forest that had been burned many years ago, leaving behind vast meadows of wildflowers and incredible vistas over the valley. It was a perfect way to end our visit to Mount Rainier.

I was very impressed with Mount Rainier National Park and it has quickly become one of my favorite parks so far on the trip. I was awed by all of the diversity and beauty, but I think what really stood out in my mind is the idea that the park was developed around a single focal-point resource. The diversity—waterfalls, old-growth forest, wildflowers, meadows, turquoise streams, glaciers, wildlife, moss—is all connected to the massive volcanic mountain. That's the story of the park. And it makes it a memorable and meaningful experience.

Oregon Coast (by Sunshine)

Every view could be a postcard

Jim and I had been to Oregon a couple times previously, so we didn’t plan to spend a lot of time in the state on our way up to Washington. Darn! We forgot just how diverse this area is and wish we would have had more time to explore. The clock is ticking, however, and we feel some pressure to keep moving if we want to see all the places on our list before our trip ends.

Breakfast at the rest area

We drove into Oregon on Hwy 101 along the coast after leaving the Redwoods. The sun looked like a giant orange ball sinking into the Pacific Ocean and waves crashed into rocky headlands. Interspersed with the high rock cliffs were crescent shaped sandy beaches beckoning to be explored. Jim could hardly contain his urge to pull off at every scenic overlook but we wanted to find a place to park for the night and get settled before it got too late. Oregon is one of a few states that allow overnight parking in their rest areas (up to 12 hours). They encourage drivers to be well rested and even provide free coffee in some rest areas. In other states, they can’t really stop you from pulling over and sleeping in your vehicle for a few hours but they don’t encourage it or provide convenient safe places to do it. The rest area we chose this night was right next to a beach and we had it all to ourselves. In the morning, we walked in the sand and searched among the tiny smooth pebbles for treasures.

Beach exploration

The entire coast of Oregon is lined with state parks and recreation areas. There are over 60 of them and it is overwhelming to choose which to explore and which to pass by. Each one beckons with its unique beach, lighthouse, or vista. The northern part of the coast is much more developed and is where you’ll find rental cottages, surfers riding the waves, and small towns lined with tourist shops. The southern part of the coast feels untouched with sparse development, but is so beautiful that it made us wonder where all the people are. There is an interesting interplay between the ocean and mainland that creates the weather patterns. When it is hot inland it is cool on the coast but clouds and fog may be thick enough to block the best views. When it is hot and sunny at the coast it can be cooler inland and all of this can flip throughout the day.

Walden and the lighthouse keeper

As we drove north from the rest area the clear blue sky was replaced with gray clouds and it got cooler and windier. Our plans to find a beach to play on were quickly replaced with “now what do we do?” Much to our delight we found a lighthouse that had just started giving tours for the day. It was the perfect place to visit on a foggy day. The Cape Blanco lighthouse sits on the point furthest west and is the oldest lighthouse on the Oregon coast. We were delighted to find a volunteer interpreter dressed as a 1900s lighthouse keeper giving tours while standing right next to the rotating light. He must have been in his 80s and after the tour suggested we all pull out our smartphones so he could take our photos as he assured us, “I have a smartphone too and know how to work one.” What fun it was to stand next to the thick giant glass spinning in the tower and look out over the waves crashing on the rocks below. Later in the day we continued with our lighthouse theme and toured the Heceta Head lighthouse. It sits atop a cove with a magnificent beach below. We explored the sea caves covered with bright green plants and slippery rocks, searched for creatures in the tide pools, collected shells washed onto the sand, and watched gulls bathing in the fresh water creek that ran into the ocean. We pushed on driving up the coast to overnight at another free rest area so we could explore again early the next day.

Sea cave exploration at Heceta Head

Being octopus at the Octopus Tree

Our first stop in the Tillamook area was Cape Meres National Wildlife Refuge. We hoped to sight some tufted puffins but all the nesting sea birds were high on rocky outcroppings and cliffs too far out to sea to get a good view of. We did identify some Common Murres, Cormorants, and Gulls. We toured the Cape Meres lighthouse and visited a crazy Sitka spruce tree with no leader and eight large limbs reaching out like octopus arms, aptly named the "Octopus Tree". We hiked down the headland on a lovely trail to the rocky shore for a picnic. There was no sand and the rocks were so large it was challenging to walk but we did get to watch some fisherman casting way out into the rough surf to catch small silver fish.

Tillamook Cheese Factory

Our next stop was the Tillamook Cheese Factory. It is the Disneyland of cheese factories with a massive parking lot and so many visitors and lines we held tight to Walden’s hand for fear of losing him in the crowds. The entire processing area is encased in glass so from the second story landing you can watch large blocks of cheese being cut, weighed, and packaged among a spider web of conveyor belts. Interpretive signage and videos tell the history and story of the local farms that produce the milk for the cheese, but nearly everyone bypassed this information for the cheese samples, sales area, and freshly made waffle cones filled with Tillamook ice cream (Walden and Daddy were in heaven).

Mmmmmm.... Salmon Berries

From the cheese factory, we drove inland to the Tillamook Forest Center where our friend Fran is the director. Walden loved the interactive exhibits (best we’ve seen on the trip) and movie experience with simulated fire and even the smell of smoke. We had to leave sooner than we’d like because the center closed, but we camped just across from the forest center at Jones Creek Campground, one of the nicest campgrounds we’ve stayed at... few people and secluded campsites near a river. Much to our delight, we discovered some ripe berries hanging on bushes taller than us. They looked like giant raspberries and were bright yellow, red, and deep purple. After much discussion and a taste test by Jim (waited at least 30 minutes to see if he lived), we decided they were safe and picked heaps of them. Walden would have eaten enough to get sick if we hadn’t stopped him. Later we learned they are salmon berries.

Splashing in the waves at Oswald West

Exhausted at Cannon Beach

In the morning, we crossed a giant bridge over the Wilson River to go back to the Forest Center. It is an Oregon Department of Forestry facility and LEED certified. The building has a fun design including a moat around the front that catches rainwater to flush the toilets and cool the interior. We climbed the fire tower out front and explored the trails through the forest before heading to the coast again. Our next beach visit was to Oswald West State Park. We walked through an old growth forest to reach a long stretch of wide sand. Walden loved running in the waves and splashing, building sand castles, and crossing the ice cold streams that ran from the hillside to the ocean. We all needed a day to sit in the sun and relax a bit without feeling the pressure to keep moving north. Our last stop on the coast was Cannon Beach to see the famous sea stacks, curiously shaped islands of rock. A strong wind and ridiculous number of tourists left us feeling a bit unpleasant. Walden was so exhausted after all of our exploring that he fell asleep while I was giving him a piggyback ride and Jim carried him back to the car in his arms passed out like a baby. He slept the entire drive to Portland. Our friends Fran and Corky recently moved to Portland from Wisconsin, so we were fortunate to be able to spend a night with them. When he woke Walden was delighted to discover there was a playground right behind Fran and Corky’s house. Even though it was a quick visit, we enjoyed catching up with some Wisconsin friends again. We are so thankful for the hospitality of our friends and family on this journey.

At the playground with Corky and Fran

In the morning, we stocked up on groceries, got gas, and headed north for Mount Rainier National Park.  

Redwoods (by Sunshine)

Towering redwoods

Eleven and a half years ago Jim and I got engaged in the redwoods. It will always be a special place to us. Even though we’d seen them before, the trees were still as enchanting this visit, perhaps even more so because of the special memories they hold. Visiting the redwoods is a very different experience from visiting the sequoias. At the sequoias, there are a limited number of groves and it is often known how many trees are in each. The sequoias are massive, wide, and have huge limbs spreading into the canopy. They are found in mixed forests with sugar pines and other large trees. Birds and squirrels scurry around hiding seeds and playing. In the redwoods forests, you find redwoods and more redwoods and more redwoods. There are far too many to count and unless the area has been logged there are no other types of trees mixed in. It is silent in a redwood forest. There are few birds or animals moving around. The sun is blocked from the forest floor with exception of a few rays that reach in like beams of a spotlight. The ground is covered with sorrel (looks like giant clover) and sword and lady ferns. Some of the ferns are taller than Walden. The trees are taller and straighter than any you’ve ever seen. The crowns are so high you can’t see the top. If the wind blows you know that even a small branch falling from so high would be scary to stand below. To me, a redwood forest feels like the primeval place I’d imagine dinosaurs living. It is majestic, beautiful, and definitely a place I will return to.

We camped three nights in Humboldt Redwood State Park

How many Burros tall is a redwood tree?

an area we had not visited before. There were an unfortunate number of mosquitoes in the campground and it was chilly so several meals were eaten in the Burro despite our lovely campsite. The first night we hiked from our camping area to the Eel River. The river bed is massively wide and covered in gravel but the river itself only fills about a quarter of it currently. From the height of the bridges and the debris stuck into tree branches along the shore, it is apparent that sometimes it is a raging river. Walden loved watching the smooth stones splash into the water when he threw them from the shore. It was a great place for Daddy to teach Walden how to skip stones, but skipping small rocks didn’t have the satisfying splash Walden was going for.

The second day we checked out the visitor center which was about as old school as we’ve ever seen. The exhibits were so old, in fact, it felt like we stepped into a museum showcasing what a “classic” 1970s visitor center was like. One very cool part of the visitor center was seeing a vehicle made from a redwood tree in the early 1900s. The tree had been hollowed out and fitted with a sink, folding toilet, storage, and bed. It was essentially a motorhome in a tree.

The "Travel-Log"

Imagine your great grandmother’s furniture, with deep wood grain and fine metal fixtures. Everything inside was of that quality and beauty. It was so spacious it was like the Burro on steroids. I would have gladly traded up for it except it was so heavy the only way it could be supported on wheels was using a train chassis. I’m guessing the gas mileage would limit our travels significantly. We spent the afternoon driving the Avenue of the Giants, a 32-mile winding narrow road through old growth redwoods. There were many places to stop and take short walks through groves of trees named for various donors and champions who had the foresight to preserve this area. Unlike sequoia wood which is brittle and of little value as lumber, redwoods were very useful and most of them were logged. Only a small percentage of redwood forests that originally covered northern California still exist.

Stream play with Daddy

The third day we took a long hike (7.5 miles) along Bull Creek. It was a great opportunity to move between redwood forests, small openings of grasses, and mixed forests in areas that had been logged and are regrowing. We had the trail to ourselves most of the day which is always a bonus. When we reached the end of the trail it was warm enough to play in the creek. Walden was thrilled to let the water wash over him as he sat in the creek nearly naked. 

The wood really is RED

On our final day, we left Humboldt and drove north to Redwoods National Park. The National Park is a unique conglomeration of federal land and three state parks jointly managed. This area of redwoods is right along the coast so the view of redwood is interspersed with views of beaches and waves crashing against jagged black rock. Humboldt is a bit inland which means the trees are not covered in fog from the coast as often. Because they receive more sunlight they can grow taller than the trees on the coast.

A magical hike

We were going to have a picnic on the beach but the cold wind forced us into a shelter and we decided to hike in the forest instead. Every grove we visited in both parks was unique in how hilly the terrain was, what the understory looked like, whether there was a stream or water present and therefore how the forest felt when walking through it. The trail to Trillium Falls (3.75 miles) was one of my favorites of the trip. The forest was lush with giant ferns and the rocks and fallen logs were covered in moss. The falls itself was small but added an element of magic to the experience because of its sound and beauty. The redwoods was one of the first places on the trip that I wish I could have spent more time but honestly don’t know how much time would have been enough. These trees touch my soul in a special way and I can imagine myself living among them.

Trillium Falls

San Francisco (by Sunshine)

San Francisco has long been a place we've wanted to visit. Jim remembers looking at a book as a little boy illustrating the 7 man-made "wonders of the world"... the Golden Gate Bridge was one of those "must see" wonders. And who could resist the lure of Alcatraz, the prison built on an island? Finally, we had our chance!

While in the San Francisco area we are stayed with friends Kelli and

Crazy fun with Kevin, Kelly, Rowan, and Kieren

Kevin and their two sons Rowan (2 years old) and Kieren (2 months). Walden thoroughly enjoyed being settled in one spot with a plethora of new toys to play with, along with a little boy nearly his age. Kelli and Kevin live in one of the East Bay Regional Parks so we had a perfect place to park the Burro – solitude surrounded by greenery, safety, plus the amenities of home. They were also amazing tour guides who know the best places to visit, where to park, and how to best navigate the insane amount of traffic in the city. A HUGE thanks to the family for hosting us and making our stay in the bay area so special.

Oh no! Locked up!

On our first day in San Francisco we visited the famed Alcatraz. It was a big day that included a ferry ride to and from the island in the bay. Alcatraz was originally built as a fort during the Civil War, then used as a military prison, then the famous high security penitentiary, then a Native American protest site, until finally it became a national park site. We enjoyed the audio tour of the cell house to learn the stories of the famous inmates such as Al Capone and attempted inmate escapes. There is a large sea bird population nesting on the island and we were fortunate to see newly hatched Western Gull chicks which, much to our surprise, are white with black spots covering their fuzzy bodies. Since we were in the area we visited Pier 39 near the Alcatraz ferry port which is filled with street performers, artists, shops, and hundreds of sea lions that lazily fill floating docks. Getting out of downtown during rush hour was enough to make us realize why we saw so many commuters on motorcycles and bicycles, which dangerously weave in between the stalled lines of traffic.

Our Silicon Valley experience with Cody and Amy

Sunshine’s cousin Cody and his wife Amy live in San Jose so

we visited them for a day. They both work in Silicon Valley so a visit to the Tech Museum of Innovation was a fitting adventure. Walden loved all the interactive exhibits full of lights and buttons. We experienced an earthquake simulation, met a robot, and watched balls move through a giant series of rails and levers. Jim and I wore these crazy biometric sensors which scanned our brain waves, muscle tension, and heart rate and recorded how we were experiencing the exhibits... which exhibit made us most tense (earthquake), most social (solar panels), most focused (astronaut jet pack simulator). After we were done, we put the sensors on a big table screen, and saw our entire experience timeline, complete with pictures and how our feelings compared to other visitors. It was fascinating! Walden also loved playing in the water fountains downtown and smelling the roses in the Municipal Rose Garden.

Walden meets a robot!

Kelli, Kevin, Jim, I and all the kids had an outing together one day. One of our stops was the San Rafael Farmer’s Market, the third largest in California. We loaded up on heaps of fresh veggies and fruit. The strawberries, blackberries, peaches, salad greens, broccoli, and zucchini are all ripe now. Kevin is a grilling extraordinaire who much to our delight shared the secret of grilled strawberries. 

We actually visited our long-awaited Golden Gate Bridge on two

Crossing the Golden Gate Bridge

different days. Because of the shape of the bay, prevailing winds, and difference in temperatures between the mainland and ocean this time of year the bridge is sometimes fogged in. So fogged in that you cannot even see it at times. We also discovered it can be forty degrees cooler on the bridge than it is just down the road due to microclimates. It was fun to see the bridge in its different moods and learn about the construction of this man-made wonder. Facts we didn’t know before visiting – the bridge is not just a tourist attraction in the National Park Service, it is actually part of many people’s daily commute. You can walk or bike across the 1.7 mile long bridge – and we walked from one side to the other an back, dodging bicycles along the way!

Family at the Golden Gate Bridge

One of our unplanned stops was for a picnic at Rodeo Beach which is a beautiful pebble beach carved out of the headlands along the San Francisco Bay. We loved sitting on the tiny polished stones watching the surfers bob in the waves. The area around the beach is part of Fort Cronkhite, a historic site in the Golden Gate National Recreation Area. We learned that the bay area has a long military history as a primary defense area of the west coast. The hills surrounding the bay are filled with bunkers and historic military buildings and forts.

Perfect pebbles at Rodeo Beach

Peaceful Muir Woods

We are proud that Walden can now identify John Muir in a line-up of famous naturalists. Our visit to San Francisco would not have been complete without a visit to Muir Woods National Monument, a grove of redwoods just north of the city. This gem of serenity with beautiful boardwalks and trails is short drive from the chaos of the city. We enjoyed the sound of the stream, smelling the damp earth, and seeing the dappled sunlight on the forest floor as we strolled through these ancient trees.

One afternoon, we got a special inside tour of Big Break Regional Shoreline Visitor Center where Kevin is the naturalist and docent coordinator. Walden loved the interactive exhibits and getting to assist Kevin in turning the lights on and off. The park is family friendly and includes a giant sand area with scooper, dock over the delta, and trail that wound around nearby neighborhoods and passed a playground.

Helping Kevin to feed the fish at Big Break

Rosie the Riveter historic park

On our last day in the area, we explored the Rosie the Riveter WWII Home Front National Historic Park. This is one of four National Park sites that Kelli oversees in the bay area. The visitor center had great exhibits and we learned about the contributions of women and minorities to the war effort. We’d heard of “victory gardens” but didn’t realize they were planted as a way to contribute to food rations due to the war and promote good eating to ensure a healthy workforce. To complete our John Muir experience, we visited the John Muir National Historic Site, another of Kelli's sites, which is the home where Muir lived his final years and wrote his memoirs. Much to our surprise it is a well-furnished mansion (by early 1900 standards) surrounded by orchards that he inherited from his father-in-law. We thoroughly enjoyed eating the perfectly ripe plums that we found beneath the trees next to the house. Walden was dripping with pink sticky juice by the time we left the site. We also picked up a few lemons to juice because who can resist drinking lemon aid from John Muir’s orchard? 

Plums from Muir's orchard were so tasty.

We had an incredible time exploring the San Francisco area with Kelli, Kevin, and their family! It will be especially difficult to leave this morning... Walden and Rowan have so much fun playing together. We are headed north... to the Redwoods, Portland, and then Seattle.

Walden and Rowan playing in the sand table... their favorite!