Sandy Eggo (by Walden)

When we finally drove into the city where my Auntie Shawna and Uncle Chris

Picnic at Mission Bay

live I asked, “Is this San Diego?” Mommy said, “Yes. We are here.” I asked, “Is it sandy here?” Mommy laughed and said, “Actually, yes, there is sand here. Would you like to play in it?” I was so excited! I was also excited to meet Shawna’s dog Spike in person since I’ve only seen him on Skype before. It was very disappointing that he either ran away or barked at me. He wasn’t snuggly and I couldn’t pet him but luckily Shawna gave me my own puppy with zipper on top that I can carry with me. I taught him not to be naughty, put him on Spikes leash, and have been taking him everywhere I go.

Chasing kite tails

The first time I got to play in the San Diego sand was at Mission Bay where we had a picnic. We grilled hot dogs, ate watermelon, and watched boats, kayakers, and swimmers. Shawna brought kites to fly and I ran and chased the tails trying to catch them. I was so disappointed I could not hold the kite and be lifted into the sky like Curious George. I thought that’s how kites work. We watched the sun setting over palm trees. Mommy and Shawna looked for sea shells and I jumped in, ran through, and squeezed the sand.

The next day Mommy, Daddy, I went to a place called Balboa Park.

Stopping to smell the roses

There were interesting buildings, musicians, and a pond with giant goldfish. Mommy and I walked through a huge garden of roses and put our noses in the flowers to find the best smells. In the afternoon, we went to a place called La Jolla to see harbor seals. They lay on the rocks next to the ocean and you could walk right up to them (though, Daddy said not to get too close). My favorites were the baby ones. There were so many seals piled up I wondered which one was the mommy one. Sometimes they made an ‘arf arf’ noise and fought with one another. There were also tide pools with snails, crabs, and enemies (anemone).

Baby on the beach

I was glad there were also some seals on the beach so we could go see them and play in the sand again.

My best tattoo face

Sea treasure

Uncle Chris’ job is giving people tattoos at a shop in Pacific Beach. I had been thinking a lot about what tattoo I wanted and decided on a hammer on my arm weeks ago. Right before we went in the shop I also decided I wanted a mosquito on my arm. I watched Chris draw the designs and met some of the other tattoo artists. When the drawings were ready Chris put them into a special machine to make them purple. (They became stencils that the artists place on the skin before inking. The stencils will wash off in a few days.) I was very still and brave when he put then on my arms and it didn’t hurt at all. The very best part of being at Chris’ work was getting to play with his wind-up robot collection. He keeps it next to the tattoo area and I could point out the one I was interested in and he’d let me try it. He even gave me one to take with me! After my tattoos were done, we walked to the beach and I got to play in the sand again. We found purple jellyfish creatures and giant kelp washed onto the beach. There were people surfing and a guy with macaws that talked. Daddy and I got to share a giant ice cream sandwich made with fresh made chocolate chip cookies and rocky road ice cream.

Auntie Shawna’s job is selling vintage jewelry at Kobey’s Swap Meet.

Vintage treasures at Kobey's Swap Meet

We went to visit her there and ate fresh peaches, cherries, and little donuts for breakfast.  I’m so happy when Mommy lets me have treats and not just oatmeal or yogurt for breakfast. This was our last day to see Shawna because we are driving away from the city. Daddy said it is a holiday weekend so we want to go where there are fewer people.

While we were in San Diego we stayed at Sweetwater Summit Regional Park. It was up on a hill and we could see houses and roads all around. At night, the city lights twinkled. Airplanes and helicopters flew right over us and we could see the red and green lights on their wings. When we went up the hill next to the playground we could see all the way to the ocean. One time we took a walk on a bridge over the Interstate. I had great fun watching the cars drive under me and running to the other side of the bridge to see them come out. When we walked by the golf course I asked where Uncle Randy was. He taught me to play golf in Georgia. Mommy explained that Uncle Randy lives by a different golf course in a different state next to a different ocean. Next to the golf course we walked by pens of horses and some were wearing masks and blankets. Another day we walked through a canyon with palm trees and a river at the bottom. In the bottom, were forts people had made with tarps. The people left their shopping carts at the top of the canyon next to the trail. I was curious to see more but Mommy and Daddy said we better keep walking. San Diego was such an interesting place! 

Our campsite on top of a hill at Sweetwater Park.

Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument (by Sunshine)

TING. TING. TING. TING. I’m woken by a loud ringing sound. It is 5:15 am and a Gila

Many cactus here are older than
the trees in Wisconsin

Woodpecker is drumming its beak on the metal roof of the ramada in our campsite. I decide to get out of bed and scare the bird away hoping Walden will sleep longer. I’m actually thankful for the early wake up because it means I get a few extra minutes for my morning routine. Almost every day I get up before the boys, dress quickly, and enjoy a bit of solitude. I do yoga while the sun comes up over the mountains, shines through the pines, or lights the area where we are staying. Some days I have time to take a short walk, read, or journal as well. Though brief, these moments alone are precious and set the tone for my day. It is quiet and I’m not being a mom or wife. I’m relaxed and can appreciate every detail that comes into my senses. On this morning, I watch Gambel’s Quail run through our campsite, listen to the chattering of birds, and feel the warmth of the first rays of sun as they reach over the mountain in front of me. When the sun is coming up (or going down) and there is something on the horizon for reference the sun appears to move so quickly. I think about how a day can seem so long even while the sun moves so fast. Then I think about how a day can seem so long yet months and years can go by so fast. Life seems too short for all the things I want to fit it. I get overwhelmed with thoughts like these so I focus on the time I have now. Right now. While I’m alone in enjoying the sounds of the morning I’m overwhelmed with gratitude for this experience I’m having. This yoga. This day. This journey with my family. I’m overwhelmed with gratitude.

Ajo Mountains

Organ Pipe is in the heart of the Sonoran Desert. In addition to being a National Monument it is also an International Biosphere Reserve. It contains plants and animals unique to this region of the world and can be used as a comparison of a healthy bioregion to similar areas impacted by humans. I like this idea because it is a crazy, wild, and remote place that might suffer from misuse or neglect without protection. Its southern border is Mexico and it is far from any major US city. There is a highway that runs through it from north to south. Even though the park is in a remote location there is a steady stream of traffic moving from Mexico to the US; presumably people heading to Phoenix to visit family or get supplies. There are signs everywhere warning visitors they may encounter smuggling and illegal immigration and should dial 911 if they witness any suspicious individuals. Border patrol vehicles are seen frequently and park rangers drive the road through the campground regularly. Along one trail, we saw a flag on a high pole identifying the location of a water container. Presumably it was for people who crossed the border, hiked through the desert, and couldn’t make it to their destination. The visitor center was named after a young park ranger who was shot while on duty by members of a Mexican drug cartel. Even with all this we never felt worried or unsafe. It just made the visit all the more memorable.

The monument is named for the organ pipe cactus, a cactus with several tall vertical 

You can hear wind moving through the organ pipe arms

columns that reach into the air. They are common in Mexico, but are rare in the United States, since they cannot withstand frost. The monument has a large, healthy population of organ pipe cacti, which share the landscape with “forests” of saguaro cactus, cholla cactus, ocotillo, yucca, and many other hardy desert plants and animals. One quote from an interpretive panel was really memorable, stated by a visiting Saudi Arabian Prince, “This is not a desert… this is a garden.” The Sonoran Desert is the most botanically diverse desert in North America. We saw more wildlife in the few days at Organ Pipe than we’ve seen in most other places!

One of Jim's amazing photos!

The campground in Organ Pipe has 208 sites. The bathrooms have flush toilets and some have solar showers. Compared to other national monuments we’ve visited this is HUGE. There were fewer than 10 people there while we visited. The busy season runs from January through March. The rest of the year the park is nearly deserted. We found one of the few sites that had a roof over the picnic table and a giant saguaro cactus. This is considered the “first summer” season for the desert, the driest time as plants wait for the monsoon rains of “second summer.” However, the temperatures were quite comfortable, with 80s during the day and cooling to 50s at night. Watching the stars at night was breathtaking; with a wide open sky, little light pollution, and a new moon, the number of stars visible was extraordinary.

We drove the Ajo Mountain loop and searched for cactus cristates – growth anomalies

Organ pipe cristate

that cause them to develop flattened fanned areas. We did the most strenuous hike we’ve ever done with Walden in the backpack trying to reach a natural arch on the side of a mountain. It was literally a climb on all fours over slippery rocks for several sections! Unfortunately, when we reached the top of the summit, we didn’t see an arch and the trail marked by cairns had disappeared. All that crazy climbing and no arch for a reward. HUMPF! We did feel a little better the next day when the visitor center manager told us he’d been on the hike twice and never made it himself.

While walking around the oldest organ pipe cactus in the park, I came within a foot of a rattlesnake. Walden was only a few steps behind me and my heart was pounding in my chest… not just because we’d been so close to the snake, but also because I realized I hadn’t been concerned about where I was stepping. After that, I always walked in front of Walden and my eyes constantly scanned the ground. This was beneficial because I spotted a Gila Monster on our hike to the arch, which Walden later informed a ranger “it isn’t really a monster, it is a lizard.”

Cholla glowing as the sun sets

That evening we watched the sun going down from the top of a hill next to the campground. As the sun shone through the spines of the cholla cactus, they glowed and looked like soft fur. On our way back to the Burro we saw jackrabbits and a kit fox (very cool!) both with oversized long ears for keeping them cool.

On our last day, we took a real desert hike to Victoria Mine, an old gold mining site. 

Newborn ground squirrel

Along the way, we found a newborn ground squirrel that didn’t even have its eyes open yet. It was stumbling along the trail in the hot sun, obviously separated from its mother. We gave it some water and moved it off the trail into the shade of a mesquite bush. I hoped its mother would find it, but deep down knew the circle of life would likely not play out in its favor (which in our attempt to explain to Walden sounded like, “Well, the baby might be food for a snake or fox.”)

What we noticed about the desert was that small variations in color were very noticeable. When everything is brown or beige a bit of green on a plant or white in a rock jumps out at you. The pink flowers of the cholla cactus seem out of place. The green bark and branches of the palo verde tree seem fluorescent. The adaptations the plants and animals have to survive in this harsh environment are impressive and could teach humans a lot.

Walden earned another Junior Ranger badge at Organ Pipe. He’s always been very observant and does well with nature bingo. These programs are teaching him a lot and they are fun for us to do as a family. One new thing we discovered at Organ Pipe was that there was also a booklet with activities for “not-so-junior” rangers! So Mommy and Daddy were sworn in as Desert Rangers (complete with patches) at the same time as Walden being a Junior Ranger.

On our way to CA

We drove north out of Organ Pipe to get to Interstate 8 which would take us to San Diego. Most of the 5.5 hour drive was through a desolate landscape. The eye opening thing was the diversity of land uses we encountered. In Ajo, we passed the largest most beautifully colored pile of copper mine tailings we’ve ever seen. Then there was the largest dairy farm we’ve ever seen. Even more impressive than the spread of barns for the cows were the miles and miles of fields growing hay and grains to feed the cows. The fields were lined by irrigation ditches and rows of homes for the staff. After we passed miles of solar arrays, we agreed this was a more practical use of this sunny landscape. When we passed the southern edge of Imperial Sand Dunes Recreation Area in California it seemed as if the miles of massive sand dunes might swallow the road. Water in the Coachella we doing? Soon after, we drove through miles of enormous wind turbines which again seemed like a great use of this arid landscape. This was definitely one of the most diverse and unusual days of driving we’ve encountered. Canal, an irrigation ditch dug from the Colorado River to Riverside County in California, glistened as it ran through the dunes. The contrast between the sand and water gave us an eerie feeling of awe and wonder. We marveled at the ingenuity while wondering what are

Visiting Grammie and Grandpa in Arizona (by Walden)

Sunset view from the back ramada

My Grammie Diane and Grandpa Dick live in Patagonia, Arizona which is very near Nogales on the Mexico border. In fact, they are so close you can see Mexico (less than 10 miles away) from their house. At night, the city lights twinkle like stars that have fallen onto the desert floor. We were going to take our time driving here from Utah… but once we got started, we were so excited that we drove all day and into the night, almost 10 hours. Arizona doesn’t have Daylight Savings Time, so it was like getting an extra hour along the way (we are on Pacific time now). On the way through Arizona we went over some big mountains and we watched the temperature go from the 80s to the 40s and then back to the 70s. Somewhere around Phoenix we went over a mountain and all of sudden there were saguaro cacti on the hills. Patagonia is in the high desert. That means even this time of year it is cool in the 40s and 50s at night and warm in the 70s and 80s during the day. It is always sunny and warm but not sweaty hot like Wisconsin in the summer. We’ve been playing outside a lot since we got here.

Fresh fruit cake with strawberry flowers

The first day we were here we celebrated my birthday since Grammie and Grandpa didn’t see me on my actual birthday. We had a party with dinosaur hats, a cake that was all made of fruit, opened presents, and had a water gun fight. Squirting people with the water tubes was the best fun I’ve had in a long time. I’ve played with the water squirters every day since then. I like being settled here and having lots of space to run, play soccer, blow bubbles, launch foam rockets into the air (thank you, Grandpa!), and ride my tricycle up and down, up and down the Ramada pretending to be a mailman and delivering packages. Wendy and Tula (Queensland Heelers) live here too. Grammie and Grandpa play with me a lot which makes me very happy and gives Mommy and Daddy a break. They’ve been working on the Burro (Grandpa helped Daddy fix the refrigerator AGAIN), cleaning things, and even relaxing sometimes. Mommy loves having a kitchen to cook in and Daddy loves having Internet all the time.

Broad-billed humming bird in ocotillo

There are LOTS of hummingbirds (broad-billed and black-chinned) that come to drink from the fountain in the backyard and feeders in the front yard. Roadrunners chase lizards in the front yard sometimes. Around Grammie and Grandpa’s house we see the Patagonia Mountains in the distance and smaller hills and washes nearby. Big white cattle free range everywhere so there is a fence and gate around the house to keep them back. The ground is rocky with brown dry plants and some green mesquite trees. If you look close you can see brightly colored flowers blooming all over. They have funny names like ocotillo, Mexican bird of paradise, and cowboy fried eggs

Cowboy fried eggs line the road sides

(prickly poppies).

We’ve been to the library, playground, and the gallery where Grammie and Grandpa sell things they make. We walked on some trails that Grandpa helped the Nature Conservancy build and Paton’s Center for Hummingbirds. Even though Patagonia is a small town, lots of people come here to see the birds. 

One day we went to Tucson and visited the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum. That was a fun place with lots of animals, birds, and plants that we don’t see in Wisconsin. I saw hummingbirds in their nests, javalinas sleeping in the shade under a bridge, a baby big horn sheep, and a cougar. I got to dig for dinosaur bones and explore a cave.

Exploring the neat rocks at the Arizona-Sonora Desert Museum

Grandpa and Walden at Ramsey Canyon

Another day, Mommy and Grammie needed some "quiet time," so us boys, Daddy, Grandpa, and I, took a trip to Sierra Vista about an hour away. We went shopping for some cool stuff like dog food and hard drives. Then, Grandpa took us to a neat place called Ramsey Canyon Preserve. It had a bubbling stream, waterfalls, boulders, and big shady sycamore trees, There were lots of people watching birds, but I was much more interested in climbing boulders and trying to balance rocks on my head. There was even a "splash zone" for kids like me to play in the creek. Daddy and Grandpa helped me finish a Nature Bingo game, and I got to pick a prize at the end... a stuffed animal bird! Afterwards, because I was soooooo good, Grandpa brought us to an awesome restaurant where you could eat peanuts right out of the shell! Needless to say, I got my fill.

Blooming cholla cactus at Madera Canyon

There was even a time when Mommy and Daddy went to Madera Canyon to camp in a tent overnight and I stayed with Grammie and Grandpa all by myself. I was so excited to show them the new bell I got for my tricycle when they came home! All they had to show were some pictures of birds.

[NOTE from Mommy: what a treat for Jim and I to have two days together after two months of family time on the road. No diapers to change, hiking at our own pace, and time to read a book and relax. It was our second visit to Madera Canyon. Our goal was to see an Elegant Trogon, a beautiful bird found only in the very southern tip of Arizona. After several hours of searching and listening, we were amazed when a pair of Elegant Trogons unexpectedly landed in a tree above our heads and began to mate!]

Elegant Trogon spotted at Madera Canyon, May 11

Pinata fun 

On our last day, we went to a Mariachi Festival at Patagonia Lake State Park. The music was fast and fun with violins, guitars, and trumpets. There were dancers that moved their feet really fast. The girls wore colorful dresses that fluttered when they spun around. The best part was the real pinata! I even got to hit it with the big stick. Us kids took turns making it break open and then candy spilled out and we all ran for a piece. I was so excited. We even found time to play in the sand and take a hike to look for birds at the park.

Breakfast with Grandpa and Wendy 

In the mornings, I like eating breakfast with Grandpa on the porch and riding my tricycle back and forth. Sometimes I get to help Grammie use her special embroidery machine in her sewing studio or cook in the kitchen. I will be so sad to leave here because I will miss playing with Grammie and Grandpa. The happy part is that we are going to San Diego soon to visit my Auntie Shawna and Uncle Chris. I think we are going to see some cactus stuff (Organ Pipe Cactus National Monument) and do some hiking before we get there. We’ll let you know what fun things we find!

Visiting Mooney the pony at the neighbors with Grammie

PS: If you only read our blog from email you might want to check the live site to see our collection of Burro view photos.
buchholzsinaburro.blogspot.com

PPS: Thank you Grandma and Grandpa Buchholz for the special story with your voices in it. I've been looking at the moon and hope you are too.

PPPS: Hi Hannah! I liked getting mail from you and enjoy the drawings and letter you sent me.

Zion and Bryce Canyon... exploring southern Utah (by Jim)

Bryce Canyon overlook

ZION. BRYCE CANYON. Just saying the names conjures up images of massive scenery, grandeur, and mystery. These national parks, located in southern Utah, were two destinations that have been on my "must-visit" list for decades. When we began planning for our adventure, we made sure that our route would bring us past these parks, and we timed the beginning of our trip to ensure that we had good weather for visiting. Needless to say, as we left Navajo National Monument in Arizona, we were excited to finally arrive at the national parks.

Of course, being flexible and without a schedule has both benefits and challenges... especially for two people who have a difficult time making decisions! As we drove toward the national parks, there were so many other attractions that were vying for our attention, and we just HAD to stop.

Kodachrome Basin State Park

We finally decided that we would visit Bryce Canyon first and explore the northern side of Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument, since Zion was a bit closer to southern Arizona. On April 24, we drove north to a Forest Service campground near Bryce Canyon in preparation for our visit. That day, we drove part of Utah's Scenic Byway 12, voted the most scenic drive in the U.S. and third most scenic drive in the world (by who? No idea... it's just what they told us at the visitor center). We stopped at neat trail called Mossy Cave, surrounded by colorful hoodoos, that led to a waterfall and moist rocky alcove. We also visited Kodachrome Basin State Park, a name given to the area by a National Geographic Society expedition in 1948 due to the numerous variations in colors. The park is known for its tall rock spires, called sedimentary pipes, that rise up like massive lone chimneys from the landscape. We hiked several trails that wound through and above the fascinating formations.

Snow again? Dixie National Forest

On the morning of April 25, our plans changed again. The temperatures near Bryce Canyon dropped and we woke up to yet ANOTHER day covered in snow with a freezing windchill. We were sick of being cold! Bryce is at a much higher elevation than Zion. After looking at the forecast, we saw that the Bryce would be dropping down to the 30s at night for the next several days, while Zion would be in the 80s during the day and 50s at night. It was time to be flexible. Sunshine and I looked at each other and said, "Let's go to Zion!"

We actually had a "preview trip" of Zion on April 23, when we drove through the eastern entrance to check out that side of the park. Our trip led us through a tunnel (that we didn't know existed) to the western part of the park, and we had a chance to visit the visitor center, hike a couple of trails, and figure out how to best get one of those coveted "first come-first serve" campsites. We knew we would have to get there around 8 a.m. in the morning to have a chance at getting a campsite. So, on April 25, we decided to drive to the city of Hurricane, which was conveniently located just 20 minutes from the west entrance of Zion AND had a Walmart where we could stay in the parking lot for free. Sunshine chose a shortcut scenic route to get from our campsite to Hurricane... Utah Highway 14, or the Markagunt High Plateau Scenic Byway. Unfortunately, what our map didn't show, was that the byway climbs 9,900 feet and a major snowstorm on top of the mountain was causing white-out conditions. We drove very carefully and very slowly, inching our way over the top of the summit. The "shortcut" took much longer than expected! When we finally arrived in Hurricane that evening, we were pleased to find the Walmart very accommodating... free parking, 24-hour restrooms, and all of the supplies you ever would need. Hey, it's hardly camping, but we HAD to try it at least once during our trip!

Staying at Walmart in Hurricane, Utah.

ZION NATIONAL PARK

The next morning, April 26, we raced over to the west entrance of Zion, and as people were waking up in the first come-first serve South Campground, we were waiting like vultures to snatch up their campsite. We actually found one that was empty, except for two full bundles of firewood. Score! With the cost of firewood, that was like an entire day's camping fee. We spread out over the large campsite and made ourselves at home for the next five days.

Angel's Landing Trail, Zion

Zion was incredible, defying the imagination. Massive stone monuments of all different shapes and colors towered above the campground and roads. Red, orange, pink, and white rock layers changed hues throughout the day as the sun rose and set. Brilliant flowers bloomed on the rocky slopes. The bubbling Virgin River (more of a creek) that ran through the canyon was an oasis in the desert park, nurturing a corridor of shady cottonwoods that were blooming, the sweet scent wafting through the campground. Walden loved playing in the water and in the sand along the banks.

The only issue? People, people, people. The park was incredibly busy, with long lines of noisy vehicles filling up the parking lots by 10 a.m., some trails so clogged that you were nearly tripping over other hikers, buses of international tourists being dropped off at every scenic overlook. This took some getting used to! We had been visiting some pretty remote areas for the past few weeks. Fortunately, the main canyon was only accessible by a shuttle bus, which conveniently started at the visitor center near our campground. Therefore, we never actually needed to use our vehicle once it was parked at the campsite.

Here are some highlights:

Holding onto a chain on the
Angel's Landing Trail

• Watchman Trail (April 23, 2.7 miles, near the campground): The trail goes up (like nearly every trail at Zion!) to a lookout point. The flowers were magnificent along the trail... cactus pink, red Indian Paintbrush, white, yellow. 

• Angel's Landing Trail (April 27, 4 miles): This is one of the most incredible trails in the national parks. It ascends nearly 1,500 feet in 2.5 miles. The last portion is not really a trail, but rather an extremely narrow climb to the top of a massive rock formation in the middle of the canyon, with steep drop-offs on both sides and only a chain to hold onto. My original plan was to carry Walden all the way to the top in the child backpack. We had been practicing for days to SIT VERY STILL so there wouldn't be a sudden shift of weight as I was crossing a narrow section. This trail was extremely busy, clogged with what appeared to be European international visitors who were practically running us over to get to the top. The trail ascends a nearly vertical wall that looks impossible to scale, but numerous switchbacks were carved into the side. Walden calls them "wiggle waggles." We made it all the way up the trail to Scout Lookout (1,000 feet), the last stop before the exposed climbing. We had some discussions (Sunshine does have a fear of heights and we have that darn parental responsibility to keep our son safe), but we decided to try the climb and turn around if it seemed too dangerous. After some encounters with slippery rock surfaces, clinging hard to the chain above steep drop-offs, dealing with the pressure of overly eager hikers behind us, and hearing a man say he would never do this trail with a kid, we decided that turning around was the most responsible thing to do. And as parents, you sometimes have to make those hard decisions. So actually reaching Angel's Landing will have to wait for another trip... maybe when Walden is 15?

View of Angel's Landing from below

Lower Emerald Pools trail

• Emerald Pools Trail (April 27, 2.6 miles): Water is what defines Zion National Park. It carved the canyons and rock formations, and is of course essential for life to survive. The Emerald Pools trail leads to pools of water that are formed by the slow dripping of seepage in the sandstone. Hanging gardens form where water comes out of the rock, creating beautiful, green, cool grottoes in contrast to the hot desert canyons. The Upper Pool, where the water actually comes out of the rock wall, was a heck of hot climb, especially after doing the Angel's Landing trail earlier in the day. The quietness surrounding the pool was the most fascinating... there were over 20 people sitting around the pool, but it was almost a quiet reverence for the site, like sitting in a church. Of course, Walden broke this as he tested the walls for echoes and ran to touch the water. The Lower Pool was surrounded by sandstone ledges with soft waterfalls streaming down from the upper pools. The trail actually went behind the waterfall providing a refreshing mist.

• Zion Lodge and ice cream! (April 27): Built in 1926, the lodge burned in 1966 and was rebuilt. Walden would tell you that his favorite part of the Zion trip was getting to eat ice cream at the Zion Lodge after our big hike!

On the edge of the Hidden Canyon Trail

• Hidden Canyon Trail (April 28, 3.2 miles): Our favorite trail in Zion was the Hidden Canyon Trail. It was a crazy steep climb up, like the Angel's Landing Trail, but without the hordes of visitors... very refreshing. A series of switchbacks with spectacular views led to some steep, narrow paths carved into the edge of the cliffs, with only chains to hold onto. Unlike Angel's Landing, I did feel safe walking the paths with Walden on my back... although we did practice our SIT STILL AND BE QUIET skill quite a bit! The trail ends at the mouth of an amazing hanging slot canyon. Then, we were on our own! We climbed over rocks and logs into the canyon itself, where massive vertical walls created a towering hallway. We discovered intricate patterns that water had carved into sandstone. We played hide-and-seek around a free-standing rock arch. We climbed on boulders and played in the sand. About a half-mile into the canyon, large rock boulders blocked the way, so we ate lunch there, watch some other people scrambling, and slowly walked out again. It was an incredible opportunity to simply explore and discover... this is what Walden loves best. 

Exploring the Hidden Canyon

Walden shows off his Junior Ranger badge

• Junior Ranger badge (April 29): When we arrived in Zion at the visitor center, the ranger gave Walden a Junior Ranger booklet. So we spent several days completing the different activities, which included watching the orientation film, doing a nature scavenger hunt, and seeing what people in a picture were doing wrong (Walden's favorite... a man taking rocks from the park. This makes it very difficult when Mom and Dad want to add to their collections!) On April 29, we brought the book back to the visitor center, and Walden became an official Zion Junior Ranger with a plastic badge. He was so proud of that badge, that he showed it to anyone who would look. Neat program!

Hiking The Narrows

• The Narrows (April 29, 2.5 miles): The last trail that we hiked in Zion was the Riverside Walk, which follows the Virgin River to the north. Here, the geology begins to change to harder rock, and the canyon walls get narrower and narrower. At the end of the trail, you can choose to continue walking into the canyon, but the walls are so narrow, there is no trail. You have to walk in the water instead. Again, this is one of the most popular hikes in Zion, so the crowds were there again. Sunshine decided to rest her toe at the end of the trail, which had an injury, but Walden and I continued on. Laced up with full hiking boots (required due to the numerous rocks under the stream and the swift current) and loaded up with Walden in the backpack, we plunged into the cold stream (about 45 degrees?) and began hiking up the canyon. The hike was spectacular. Steep walls on both sides, waterfalls running over the edge from rock seeps, caves and grottoes carved by the stream. By careful route planning, I only got the bottom of my shorts wet (though we saw several other people plunge in above their waists). We hiked about a quarter-mile, found a small sandy area, and Walden got out and played in the water and rocks.

In the end, we were amazed at the variety of opportunities that Zion offered. Some parks really focus on one major asset, like the hoodoos of Bryce Canyon. But at Zion, there was so much more than just the rock formations... walking and playing in streams, dripping overhangs, pools, and waterfalls, hidden canyons to explore, museums, scenic drives, tunnels, wildflowers, crazy exposed trails. We were fortunate to be able to spend so much time at this amazing place.

BRYCE CANYON NATIONAL PARK

On April 30, we left Zion National Park to visit Bryce Canyon, which, according to the weather forecast, would be in the 70s during the day and 40s at night... much better than the week before! One of the reasons that we had driven to the west entrance of Zion earlier was because of the tunnel on the Zion-Mount Carmel Highway. Built in 1930 to open Zion to tourism east of the park, the tunnel was now too small to accommodate most RVs and trailers. If you're too large, you have to pay an extra $15 for an escort (essentially closing down the tunnel to oncoming traffic). And we're cheap! So we avoided the tunnel while hauling our Burro. However, after checking the dimensions, we discovered that our little Burro was small enough to fit in the tunnel without having to pay the fee! We ended up saving a huge amount of time by driving our Burro through the tunnel on our way to Bryce... although, we all scrunched our shoulders together to get a little smaller while driving through the tunnel.

Bryce amphitheater at sunset

Being so near to Zion, it seems like Bryce Canyon would be a similar kind of experience. But it's like a completely different world. The elevation is much higher, and therefore the weather is cooler. The park is long and narrow, focusing specifically on the unique geology of the area. The visitor center is smaller. And it just feels different... it's less crowded, less rushed, more peaceful, more intimate.

Hoodoos along the Navajo Loop Trail

The landscape itself is absolutely breathtaking. When you look over the edge of the lookout for the first time, "wow" is the only word that describe it. The "canyons" (actually amphitheaters) are studded by thousands of colorful rock spires, called "hoodoos", that form a forest of rocky trees. The tops of the spires are like snowflakes, each with its own unique shape and personality. The deep colors of red, orange, pink, and white are horizontal bands that you can see replicated through all of the rocks from one side of the amphitheater to the other. Photos don't come close to showing how vast the carved area truly is, and how insignificant you feel looking down.

A dusty boy

We had our choice of several campsites in two different campgrounds. We chose one in the Sunset Campground, where we stayed for 4 days. This provided easy access to the main viewing points and trails. One thing we discovered quickly, Bryce Canyon is DUSTY. The gravel roads in the campground are dusty. The campsites themselves are dusty. And, by default, Walden was COVERED in dust from head-to-toe almost instantly. It sure is fun digging in dust, throwing it into the air to watch the wind carry it, and, of course, putting it on your head.

Here are some highlights of our Bryce Canyon adventure:

Selfie with a hoodoo, Fairyland Trail

• Fairyland Trail (May 1, 9 miles): Sunshine and Walden were nice enough to give me a solo hiking day! After hiking with months with Walden on my back, a strenuous 9-mile hike through the canyons felt amazingly easy. Fairyland Canyon is a smaller and more intimate canyon just north of the massive Bryce Amphitheater. The hoodoos are younger and have brilliant colors. The trail leads into the Bryce Canyon Wilderness Area, much less popular than the main Bryce Amphitheater, and I was happy to see only a few people on the hike. It's a totally different experience to hike among the hoodoos rather than just look at them from above. They tower above you in all sorts of crumbling shapes. I enjoyed being able to actually touch them; the sensory experience created a deeper personal connection for me. The trail descends into Fairyland Canyon, then up onto a ridge with amazing views, then back down into Campbell Canyon. The hoodoos here were much different. They are older, and therefore weathered down to clumps rather than spires, a "hoodoo graveyard." The trail provides view of the Tower Bridge formation, with two rock bridges, and then ascends back up the canyon past blindingly white walls (called the China Wall) and spires. When I got to the top, I treated myself to a slice of pizza from the General Store... I know, roughing it.

Sunset at Inspiration
Point

• Inspiration Point sunset (May 1): That evening, we hiked to Inspiration Point, a lookout high above the Bryce Amphitheater, and another good uphill hike from our campsite (why are all of the trails uphill?). The setting sun created a wonderland of deep colors and shadows. The hike was spectacular along the rim of the canyon. Of course, Walden wanted to get out of the backpack at every overlook and dangerous cliff. So when we reached Inspiration Point, we let him out to explore... while watching him carefully every second ("Stop climbing the fence!", "Stay away from the edge!", "Hold my hand on the steep part!"). He loved leading the way down the steep hill trail, making funny noises as he bounced down running. We watched the full moon rise above the surreal landscape.

Sunshine on Peekaboo Trail

• Navajo/Peekaboo/Queens Garden Trails (May 2, 6 miles): The main trails at Bryce Canyon weave through the hoodoos of the massive Bryce Amphitheater. These trails are also the most popular, so we did have to contend with the crowds again. We started at Sunset Point and descended steeply on a series of switchbacks on the Navajo Loop Trail. Quickly, hoodoos of fanciful shapes were towering over our heads, including the iconic Thor's Hammer. We continued descending into a narrow canyon where, amazingly, Ponderosa pine trees survived in the shaded environment. At the bottom, we saw Twin Bridges, two natural rock bridges eroded from the canyon material, and continued onto the Peekaboo Trail. This steep up-and-down 3-mile loop seemed to have a surprise around every corner... tunnels, colorful hoodoos, the Wall of Windows (large holes eroded out of the cliff face), a horse tour, and incredible views. After eating lunch, we took the Queens Garden Trail to ascend out of the canyon again. The Queens Garden is an area filled with especially colorful hoodoos (pinks, purples, whites) that seem to grow out of the ground. One was supposed to look like Queen Victoria, but Walden and I couldn't see the resemblance. We continued the steep climb out of the amphitheater, traveling through more tunnels in the rock, to reach Sunrise Point at the top. And Walden, for being such a good hiker, got his favorite treat in the world... another ice cream cone.

Queen's Garden

Earning our "I Hiked the Hoodoos" pins

• Hike the Hoodoos pins (May 2): Scattered throughout Bryce Canyon are small interpretive panels called "Hike the Hoodoos." This is part of a fitness challenge. If you visit three of these signs and make a rubbing (or take a photo of yourself with the sign), you get an award. In total, we actually visited 6 of the signs with all of our hiking. Walden showed our photos to the ranger at the visitor center, and we each received a really nice metal pin that said, "I Hiked the Hoodoos." What a neat idea!

UTAH'S SCENIC BYWAY 12

Escalante Interagency Visitor Center

On May 3, we left the campground in Bryce Canyon, moved the Burro to a parking area outside the park, and finally got to travel the rest of Scenic Byway 12. Calling it the most scenic byway in the U.S. might be a stretch (considering "scenic" is a subjective experience), but the scenery and history is incredible. From Powell Point, a pink cliff that rises above gray badlands, to ancient Pueblo structures hidden in rocky alcoves, from riding on a large lizard sculpture (visitor center in Escalante), to discovering the Mormon "Hole-in-the-Rock" expedition (a 6-week effort to blaze a road that turned into a 6-month battle against the elements), we had so much fun exploring. Some of the highlights include:

Lower Calf Creek Falls

• Viewing how the road meanders over the vast Escalante Canyons and colorful slickrock; it was built by the CCC and nicknamed the Million Dollar Highway.
• Hiking to Lower Calf Creek Falls in Grand Staircase-Escalante National Monument (6 miles). A storm was brewing and it was incredible walking through the canyon listening to the deep rumbles of thunder echoing off the walls. It also made us walk faster! Fortunately, we only had a few sprinkles of rain. The wispy 126-foot waterfall pouring through a slot in the canyon wall was amazing. Moss and algae made the wall glow green behind.
• Driving The Hogback. This famous portion of the byway curves along the very top of a narrow slickrock ridge that drops into canyons on both sides. 
• Camping for FREE in the Dixie National Forest just outside Red Canyon. The dispersed campsite was better than many that we had paid for, with great views of the full moon rising.
• Hiking through Red Canyon (2 miles). One of the most photographed areas in Utah, the Red Canyon in the Dixie National Forest was developed as a gateway to Bryce Canyon. The scenic byway travels through two tunnels constructed in 1925. The canyon itself, easily accessible from the road, is covered with incredible red sandstone spires and formations.

Driving through a tunnel in Red Canyon

Southern Utah was a spectacular part of our trip and definitely a place that we will return in the future. Now, on to southern Arizona to visit Grammie and Grandpa!